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Basic Equipment Setup Tips

These tips are general guidance where no manufacturer data is known and apply to most bows. However, things that are bow specific such as bracing height may need to be modified for high tech bows such as compounds / cambows.

Bracing Height

Correct Bracing Height: the bow maker should state a recommended range, normally measured to the front of the bow, or perhaps to the arrow rest/button point (if the bow has one), when the bow is strung but ‘at rest’. If the range is unknown, for most bows 8 to 9 inches is probably a good start-point. At the correct height, the bow should sound pleasant when shot (more of a ‘boom’, than a ‘whip crack’). Generally, it should be in the top ½ of the recommended range, as arrow clearance is better with a higher brace height. (NB if you suspect your fletchings are catching, try a thin layer of spray-on talcum powder on the bow to check). If your bracing height is too low you can often adjust it by adding twists to your bow string: in any event a string should have at least 20 twists to its length. As many as 40 twists can be made with no detriment to the string’s life. Once the brace height is established, always check it on set-up, with either a ruler or purchased gauge.

Nocking Point

Correct Nocking Point: This must be positioned so the underside of the arrow is above square at the string when on the arrow rest.

nockpoint

A good start-point is 1/8" to 3/16" above square. To check the right point for your bow you need to carry out ‘Bare-Shaft Tuning’. This is based on the fact that an arrow with no fletchings can fly straight for 15 to 20 yards, but after that distance the same arrow with fletchings flies better only because of the fletchings: therefore, if you can shoot arrows with and without fletchings to the same place, then fletchings can only improve (rather than hinder) the arrow.

Site updated by Alan White on 16/2/08